The mesmerizing beauty of the actual De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheel Tourbillon
Light, thin, and bright, a fresh downright beauty.
Master watchmaker Denis Flageollet, the “mad genius” driving De Bethune’s creations, is actually passionate about the “great traditions of classical watchmaking” and it is determined to contribute movements “worthy of the 21st century” (32 to date). While many relate De Bethune with smooth, futuristic vessels, Flageollet’s concentrate on classical finishes and quest for chronometric excellence reflect their reverence for Enlightenment horologists. The DB28 watch, released in 2010, was De Bethune’s first contemporary “baby. ” Just as contemporary musicians should master classical music to be able to compose, Flageollet’s classical coaching set him on De Bethune’s stunning trajectory. On sale since late 2024, we wanted to have a closer look at one of the most gorgeous models: the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon.
The DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon marks the latest phase in the evolution of De Bethune’s iconic flagship, the particular DB28. Over the years, the DB28 has evolved, revealing its primary with the launch of the Steel Wheels model in 2018. This was followed in 2020 by the ultra-thin DB28XP (extra-thick), one with a tourbillon. The actual gorgeous DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon, launched in Oct 2024, combines elements of most of these models.
Every thing about this watch reflects Flageollet’s philosophy, from the patented mechanised innovations of the movement towards the radical skeletonization, from the beautiful finishing to the lightweight ti case. As De Bethune fans know, titanium is really a metal that Flageollet enjoys, and he discovered by opportunity that by heating typically the metal, it can also turn glowing blue, just like steel and metal. Now, everything from the case for the dial and balance steering wheel is finished in De Bethune’s signature color, thermally oxidized titanium.
The particular lightweight 43mm grade five titanium case, with its mirror-polished contours, features the line’s signature patented floating lugs and noon crown. In line with the XP name, the situation is 9. 1mm thicker. The smooth, streamlined case center is engraved with twinkling to evoke lines associated with speed (shimmering engraving is actually a technique developed by DB, a good updated interpretation of guilloché that accentuates shapes as well as creates light and dark areas to add depth). The case can be a one-piece construction that is somewhat wider in the middle and slimmer at noon and six o’clock. The design’s accordance can be seen in details such as the hold that echoes the hollowed-out shape of the lugs.
On the dial, De Bethune’s signature color, azure, and his favorite metal, ti, stand out. Polished circular hours markers are set in to the titanium chapter ring, etched with a blue shimmering design. The same blue shimmer routine can be seen on the skeletonized triangulado barrel bridge and on often the inserts on the tops from the two mainspring barrels, that feature exposed ratchets and also micro-beveled teeth.
Mirror or black perfecting is another in-house feature, using the titanium dial base, small triangular bridges, the skeletonized hands and the bevels in the large barrel bridge almost all so carefully polished which they appear black when seen from certain angles. Typically the stunning reflections from the refined surfaces are achieved manually using diamond paste on the boxwood grinding wheel.
The 30-second ti tourbillon with silicon get away wheel, which weighs simply 0. 18 grams and is also touted as the lightest tourbillon escapement on the market, spins prior to your eyes in a windowpane at 6 o'clock within the dial. The Flageollet's orange titanium balance wheel, along with white gold weights, is preserved place by a skeletonized mirror-polished bridge that connects on the base of the central triangulado bridge.
The watch is powered by the manual-winding calibre DB2009V6, a type of the DB2009V5 but with less parts (275 vs . 380). Equipped with several patented improvements by De Bethune, the actual self-regulating double barrels make sure a power reserve of up to a few days. A power reserve indication on the back measures the particular fuel supply. With its extremely light, fluid and glowing case, its thin user profile and its multi-layered skeletonised switch, you can almost imagine this floating on your wrist, traveling through the sky.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS - DE BETHUNE DB28XP STEEL WHEELS TOURBILLON
Case: 43mm diameter x 9. 1mm thickness - polished quality 5 titanium with flying lugs, noon crown, situation centre with shimmering complete - sapphire crystal together with double AR coating -- polished titanium screw-down circumstance back with linear reserve of power indicator
Dial: mirror-polished titanium baseplate - ti minute track with pink shimmering finish and finished hemispherical hour markers : skeletonised triangular bridge using blue shimmering finish rapid double barrel with glowing blue shimmering insert - slick titanium hands - 30-second tourbillon at 6 o'clock
Movement: DB2009V6 la mecanique - in-house, manual turning - 30mm - 275 components, 40 jewels instructions 5Hz / 36, 600vph - ultra-light 30 Ti tourbillon with blued metal balance wheel and white gold or platinum weights - Silicon avoid wheel - Double clip or barrel, power reserve 5 days
Strap: Extra soft crocodile leather with alligator leather-based lining or blue material strap - Buckle formed like floating lugs